Ettinger's Walsall Factory Keeps Leather Craft Alive by Hand

A small team inside one of Walsall's last surviving leather goods factories is responsible for every cut, edge, and stitch that goes into an Ettinger wallet — a process that relies entirely on skilled human hands rather than automated production lines.

Gary Billingham, who oversees the operation, explained that each wallet is assembled from 28 separate leather pieces, cut using a hydraulic press before being individually thinned along the edges so they can be turned, glued, and stitched together by hand. The meticulous sequence demands precision at every stage — a reality that limits how much any technology can assist. "You can't bring in robots," the company has acknowledged, underscoring the irreplaceable role of experienced craftspeople.

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Ettinger's output extends beyond wallets to items such as cigar cases, reflecting a broader product range united by the same labor-intensive manufacturing philosophy. The Walsall facility is part of a diminishing cluster of traditional leather workshops in the region, which was historically one of Britain's most important centers for leatherworking.

The factory's story forms part of an ongoing Guardian series examining high-end British manufacturing at a moment when domestic craft production is both under economic pressure and experiencing renewed consumer interest. Other installments in the series have explored denim production in Wales and bespoke customization at Rolls-Royce, tracing a wider pattern of artisan industries finding new relevance. Ettinger's approach — rooted in what Billingham describes as an unwavering "attention to detail" — positions it within that selective tier of British makers that compete on quality rather than volume.

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